Na Tokáni Gamekeeper's lodge

Welcome to Na Tokáni. As you stand here, take a moment to simply breathe and look around you. You have arrived at a place where the rugged beauty of nature meets a long history of human retreat. You are currently in the heart of the Bohemian Switzerland National Park, surrounded by the dramatic landscape of sandstone rocks and deep, mysterious gorges that make Jetřichovice so famous. Before you lies a complex that feels almost like a mountain village transported from the Alps to the heart of the Czech lands. These alpine-style cabins, with their cozy appearance and welcoming atmosphere, serve as a sanctuary for those seeking peace away from the bustle of modern life. Whether you are here as a hiker, a nature lover, or a history enthusiast, the air here carries a sense of timelessness, blending the wildness of the forest with the refined history of the nobility.

To truly understand the place you are standing in, we have to travel back several centuries. The story of Na Tokáni did not begin with the buildings you see today, but with the land itself. Way back in 1680, this area was established as a game reserve. In those early days, it was a wilder, more secluded place, managed carefully to ensure that the local wildlife flourished. Over time, this reserve evolved into something more exclusive. It became a cherished hunting retreat for the Kinský family, one of the most influential noble houses in the region. For the Kinskýs, this wasn't just about the hunt; it was about escaping the formalities of court life and immersing themselves in the raw beauty of the sandstone cliffs.

As the years passed, the needs of the hunting parties grew. By 1833, Prince Rudolf Kinský recognized that the hunters needed a more reliable place to rest and seek cover from the elements. He ordered the construction of a provisional shelter, a modest beginning that signaled the transition of Na Tokáni from a mere reserve into a permanent outpost. This period marked a golden age of hunting culture, where the nobility spent weeks in the wilderness, blending sport with a deep appreciation for the natural world.

Now, let us turn our attention to the architecture surrounding you. As you look at the buildings, you will notice a very specific aesthetic. The current complex is characterized by its alpine-style cabins, which give the site its unique charm. While the site has roots in the 17th century, the buildings you see now are much younger. The main gamekeeper's lodge and the inn building were constructed in 1932. I invite you to observe the facade and the general layout of the complex. Notice how the structures seem to nestle into the landscape, designed to provide comfort and warmth amidst the cool breezes of the sandstone gorges. For decades, these buildings have functioned as a restaurant and a pension, welcoming travelers and offering them a taste of mountain hospitality. The architecture is meant to evoke a sense of rustic luxury, providing a cozy refuge after a long day of trekking through the surrounding rocks.

However, Na Tokáni is not just a place of leisure; it has also been a silent witness to the high-stakes diplomacy of the 20th century. If we move forward in time to 1938, this quiet retreat suddenly found itself at the center of European attention. During a time of immense political tension, as the world teetered on the brink of war, Na Tokáni hosted members of the Runciman Mission. Lord Walter Runciman and Frank Ashton-Gwatkin visited this very spot. Imagine the scene: the serene, silent woods of Jetřichovice contrasting with the heavy, anxious conversations of diplomats trying to navigate the complex political crisis of the era. It is a striking thought that while the birds sang in the sandstone cliffs, men were here discussing the fate of nations. This intersection of natural tranquility and geopolitical turmoil adds a layer of gravity to the peaceful atmosphere you feel today.

But as you explore the grounds, it is important to remember that the history of Na Tokáni is also a story of resilience in the face of tragedy. This place has a recurring and heartbreaking relationship with fire. Long before the current buildings were erected, there was a grand hunting castle here, built in the mid-19th century. It was a symbol of the Kinský family's prestige, but in 1905, it was completely consumed by flames. Along with the castle, a second lodge also perished in that blaze, leaving the site scarred and empty for a time. This loss eventually paved the way for the new construction in 1932, creating the alpine charm we see today.

Unfortunately, the cycle of fire returned in recent years. On May 22nd, 2020, a devastating fire swept through the complex. It was a tragedy that felt like an echo of the past, as two of the five buildings were completely destroyed. As you look around the complex today, you are seeing a place that is still healing. The absence of those lost structures serves as a poignant reminder of how fragile these historical sites are and how much effort goes into preserving them for future generations.

There is something almost mystical about Na Tokáni. It is a place of cycles—of growth and destruction, of royal luxury and diplomatic tension, of wild nature and human architecture. It stands as a testament to the enduring appeal of the Bohemian Switzerland landscape. The way the sandstone rocks tower over the cabins creates a feeling of being protected by the earth itself, yet the history of the fires reminds us that nature and time are unpredictable.

As you prepare to move on, I encourage you to take one last look at the harmony between the alpine cabins and the surrounding forest. Perhaps you can imagine Prince Rudolf Kinský planning his hunt in the 1830s, or Lord Runciman reflecting on the tensions of 1938 while looking out at the same cliffs you see now.

Please feel free to wander through the grounds, enjoy the hospitality of the inn, or venture further into the breathtaking gorges that surround this historic lodge. Let the silence of the rocks and the stories of the past accompany you on your journey. Thank you for visiting Na Tokáni. Enjoy the rest of your exploration of Jetřichovice.